Hiking in Albera: Puig d'Esquers, Puig d'en Jordà, and Hidden Gems
Performed on 3/8/2026
Description
On March 8, 2026, we embarked on a day of discovery through the Albera National Natural Park of Interest, aiming to ascend two of the FEEC 100 Cims: Puig d'Esquers and Puig d'en Jordà. Covering a distance of 15.48 km, this route revealed a surprising facet of Albera, typically dry, but which we found generously watered by the recent meteorological instability of 2026.
We began our adventure at Coll de la Serra (Vilamaniscle). Soon after, we crossed the Torrent de la Balmeta, which displayed an unusually abundant water flow. The ascent towards Puig d'Esquers led us through places full of charm and history: we passed by the solitary Ermita de Sant Martí de Vallmala, where we were fortunate to spot specimens of the orchid Himantoglossum robertianum, and just before reaching the summit, we encountered the Dolmen de Puig d'Esquers, a millenary testament to the past.
After the obligatory photos at Puig d'Esquers, we undertook a long traverse across several passes, observing through the low clouds our next objective, Puig d'en Jordà, and a unique rock formation that resembled a small Pedraforca: the Orelles de la Mula (Mule's Ears). We continued linking peaks until we reached the French border, where we culminated our ascent to Puig d'en Jordà.
The descent guided us down the other slope, following sections of the well-known Ruta dels 4 refugis de la Tramuntana (Route of the 4 Tramuntana Refuges). This descent was not without excitement, featuring some scrambles that added an adventurous touch. Along the way, we passed by other peaks like Puig dels Esquerders and Puig del Roure, and visited the Dolmen de Dofines, another prehistoric vestige. Finally, a track led us back to our starting point.
Despite the forecasts, the rain held off, allowing us to enjoy a dry day. Unfortunately, the low clouds deprived us of distant views, although we could glimpse the vastness of the Mediterranean Sea and the coastal towns, both in Catalonia and Roussillon (France). A day of exploration in eastern Albera that, with its cork oak forests and Mediterranean scrublands, gifted us an authentic landscape and a deep connection with the nature and history of this border mountain range.
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